Travellers end, travels never end.
J. Saramago
Haugastøl, Norway same latitude, same longitude.
Inside my Lavvu (the tipi-like Sami tent) is warmer than outside and the wind a solid presence flapping the thin cotton wall. But outside is howling, roaring sometimes. The snow is accumulating and come inside the Lavvu. And the snow flakes re gently falling on the stove, evaporating instantly. The three states of water in less than one second.
My project too is changing, is evaporating or simply changing state?
Finally the skins (something you glue under your skis to be able to climb a steep hill or mountain without retrocede) they arrived. Wonderful Pomoca skins 100% mohair. Also I got the wool jacket from Triple 2, so warm and waterproof and the Soulra Rugged Rukus solar charger which is also a bluetooth speaker.
Getting a pair of ski skins and I' ve lost some grams of my skin. During a skied trip to Tuva Hytte I skied for totally 23 km with some rented boot, trying to go lighter and these bots simply ate my heel's skin. Some infection came. So I am stuck again in this little paradise called Haugastøl.
Eulalia Valldosera, very well known international artist, came to visit me. She is a very important part of the project as you can read in the previous post.
I talked a lot with her about my doubts, my mistakes in organizing a trip so quickly and I came to the conclusion that it is better to move, like I made with Volta Mallorca too (and it's three…) to the next year the project.
And now I tell you the reasons.
Here I met Carl Alvey, a well known and experienced polar expeditions guide. He was training two young New Zealanders, Josh and Zac Lyon,( Four Caps Expedition) preparing their polar skied and kited expedition. He was very hard and sincere expressing his opinion about my tent, my pulka and some gear. And he knows what is talking about. He made 4 Antartica expeditions and 9 Greenland crossing, to say nothing about his Hymalaya experiences and Alps expeditions.
Basically weight is the problem. The Lavvu is a wonderful tent, and I am experiencing the comfort of its cotton walls, the possibility of bulding an open fire or lighting a stove, standing room and space, but it's heavy for one man pulling his own pulka, and I was overextimating my strenght. Also the Lavvu needs poles and also they are heavy too. It is perfect for a seminomadic trip, with prolonged camps, or with a sled pulled by dogs. So I have to go for a second hand traditional polar tent nylon made. At least I will try to reuse a tent.
Also snowkite will take more time to learn and Carl is suggesting me to use also a ski sail, or paraglide or parasail. Shorter lines and easier to set up and down. Expecially in strong winds. Kite is really extraordinary but can aslo be quite dangerous in strong wind expecially skiing along unknown surfeces and in gusty conditions. I am still on the way to learn and maybe I will improve quickly. Anyway...I must confess...I'm in love with it.
I am thinking now to go around the plateau of Hardangervidda for a tour with the pulka and the new tent, donating the Lavvu tent to the Hotel Haugastol. I want to visit some of the cabins arounf the plateau and see the wonderful lanscape which I've already and for only two days skied from Ustaoset to Tuva anc back to Haugastol. And some shorter trip.
The majesty of this lanscape is breathtaking, expecially (and literally) when windy; maybe I will be so lucky to see the biggest reindeer herd in Europe.
In Tuva I met the owner Peter and Heileen who are looking after this 100 years old cabin since 40 years. Great people and great food.
Eulalia got a passage back to Ustaoset after skiing in cold and wind for almost 10 km from 0 experience. She has been really strong!
The many persons using cross country skis, pulkas, dogs are wonderful. A different approach to mountains not so popular in the Alps where alpine skiing is overwelming the valleys. In Geilo the night skiing piste was empy.
My pulka is good. A little bit heavier than "serious pulkas". Like the one of Alex Bierwald and his girlfriend Nathalie. They build the best pulkas of the world, the company is called Acapulka and I was so lucky to be involved and help them in the friction tests.
Last night a good snowfall, windy and finally back to negative temperature after some unusually warm day. Dripping inside the tent is a problem and everything get wet.
For me the best spring is a cold and dry day.
Meeting so many interesting persons here. The Kaupang family, running this magic hotel and helping me so much, Terjie, Elbjørn, Liv, Bjørn, and the last younger son whose name I never learn, then Florence, Clara, …Daan, Juan... so many from so many places. The Haugastøl Turistsenter Hotel is a catalizing place.
I am happy here.
A super hug and Tusen takk
Giacomo